WHOA Podcast Episode 11 From Mountain to Lake

Quite the change of locations. It began in the mountains, surrounded by stillness and ended on a beach listening to loud dance music. Pleuntje, Stephen and Aubrey descended Mount Mulanje and were greeted by a Women's Gospel choir. That was followed by a long drive through throngs of people who seemed to be waiting for royalty and we appeared to be the last people allowed through the police/military road blocks. Somehow we managed to get lost in a village that had only 2 streets, but did eventually find Fat Monkeys camp resort. Time to sleep... nope. The music kept playing until 2a.m. and then the fishing boats revved their engines beginning at 4a.m. Will there ever be sleep again? If you're planning a trip to Mulanje, be sure to contact Aubrey directly: 00 265 (0)884429448 (mobile/ WhatsApp)

from mountain to lake

The 60m-deep Dziwe la Nkhalamba (literally 'Old People's Pool') .... again.
This photo was taken about 25yrs ago!

Part way down the Chapaluka path from Chambe hut down the mountain we had a chance to jump into Dziwe la Nkhalamba (Old People's Pool). One of the things our guide pointed out on the path nearby were the remains of clay pots submerged in the ground. I was glad Aubrey told us because once we knew what to look out for there were quite a few of these pots visible as we continued on our way. These pots had something to do with 'the old people'. My immediate reaction was to be careful not to stand on them - how old are they? what stories do they tell? - while also realizing that this 'archeological site' is completely exposed to the trampling feet of many hikers who don't see or don't know. Not to mention exposure to all sorts of weather and some of the highest rainfall in the region.

The necessary paperwork for 3 cold drinks

When I had a chance to do a bit of searching it became clear that little is known about the clay pots near the old people's pool in the Likhubula river of Mt Mulanje.
Search: Mulanje + archeology = very little
Mulanje + Dziwe la Nkhalamba = very little
Mulanje + clay pots old people's pool = very little
I thought academic databases might be a bit more to the point and I tried the Web of Science and Scopus. It seems however, most academic output about Mulanje concerns biodiversity, biology, plant sciences, zoology and some tropical medicine and public health studies.

A blog post by journalist Agnes Dumi Mizere from 2013 gives some detail on a rain shrine and possible deities. She mentions a Catholic University group doing research and references one Menno Welling. This small world we live in connects this person who did archaeological research in Mulanje with my sister and the town where she lives but that's not the point here. I must correct myself, little is written about those pots... which is not the same as what is known. The oral traditions of a country like Malawi are rich but they're barely on the web. And I wish now that I'd done a better job of listening to what I was told. They were maybe not the scientific facts about their age or exact loaction. Who brought them there? What were they hoping for? It makes me look forward to visiting Mulanje again.

Back at Likhubula House there was a music video being recorded while we rested a bit and enjoyed a cold drink (Malawian Fanta: some of the best Fanta in the world!). Being around lots of people was quite a change after the relative solitude of the mountain and now there were all these dressed up swaying women singing. I don't think this was the exact same choir but to give you an impression check out this video of the Umodzi Womens' Choir, also recorded in and around Mulanje.

On we go: road trippin' via Phalombe, Zomba, Liwonde and Mangochi

And just in case you're planning your own trip we would like to remind you that we highly recommend our Mulanje Mountain Guide: Aubrey contact him on WhatsApp 00 265 (0)884429448
As we continued on our road trip towards the lake there was lots to think about and see. Around us the landscape changed. As we left Mulanje and Zomba behind, we saw more and more baobab trees. Palm trees too. It's pretty brief but if you're now ready for a full geography lesson you might enjoy this: Geography Now presents Malawi!

WHOA Podcast Episode 10 Chambe

Day 2 in the Mulanje Massif took Stephen & Pleuntje from Lichenya to Chambe. Everything about the day was stunningly beautiful. Well, except for when the group of 5 American missionaries invaded the hut and a massacre ensued. Plus, we share some 'Life Lessons' from following our guide, Aubrey. If you're planning a trip to Mulanje, be sure to contact Aubrey directly: 00 265 (0)884429448 (mobile/ WhatsApp)

Chambe

Chambe hut has a stream running right by it which was great for an afternoon paddle and splash. It also has 'running water', in that there's a  tap-like pipe set up that continuously spews water. I guess it's water from the stream that is slightly diverted towards the hut, so creating a perfect spot for dish-washing and tooth-brushing. It made me think of my father. Always, eager to fix a leaky tap or pump, always on the look-out to improve access to clean water and minimise wastage. Splashingly generously I wasn't quite sure if he would improve of this 'approach'.

The topic of water pumps came up later in the day, talking to the Americans who were also staying at Chambe that night. A few of these guys are currently involved in water/ sanitation projects in Malawi and Mozambique and one of their tasks is the maintenance of water pumps. At this I perked my ears. Do you know of the Nsimbi pump? It turns out that the Nsimbi pump which my father helped/developed in the late 70's, early 80's is still in use. Parts are still available in Blantyre although other models are more common. In the following days we kept an eye out for this particular type of pump, didn't see it but nice to know it's out there.

You were probably not expecting a lesson in water pumps so I'll just add some pictures to make it more palatable. The 'Nsimbi' is not included but it's related to the Blair pump I think, and means steel or iron in Chichewa. It's a direct action hand pump for shallow wells. Invented in Malawi.

from a publication called Water for All published by the Zimbabwe Government and online here

WHOA Podcast Episode 9 Lichenya

Day 1 of hiking the Mulanje Massif. We departed early in the morning towards Lichenya hut. Stephen sweated more than he ever has before. Pleuntje found it breath-taking, literally. Stories were swapped with Aubrey, the world's greatest guide. We were shocked to discover that the waist-pouch with all our valuables had been left behind. How were we going to tip the Watchman without any cash? Give him cookies or a coconut?

Lichenya

break with a view along the 'Milk Run' path

The natural environment of Mulanje has some pretty unique features. For Pleuntje, recognising some of the plants and flowers brought back memories of family expeditions of the past. Favourites include the everlasting sunflowers (helichrysum), the 'Mulanje toilet paper', which is a particular kind of hanging lichen growing on trees, the proteas, and the tree ferns.

When we initially booked our trip, there had been some 'unrest' in the Mulanje region due to black magic and vampires. Yes, indeed, that sucks. And sounds very strange, doesn't it? Even at the time of writing, the official Belgian and Dutch travel advice is to visit Mulanje with 'heightened alertness' for these reasons. Different versions of what was going on in 2017 still circulate and this was not something we were too concerned about and not something we will go into here. However, it does connect with a bit of the mystery of the mountain that surfaces in accounts of locals and visitors, past and present. For example, most hikers head straight up to the highest point called Sapitwa, which means: 'Don't go there'. Some of this came up in our conversations with Aubrey (when we had a chance to catch our breath and talk). Just to say not all trips up this mountain are uneventful.

Looking across the Lichenya plateau

 If you're planning a hike more resources can be found through the Mountain Club of Malawi. 

For an excellent guide be sure to request Aubrey S. through the Forestry Office or contact him directly: 00 265 (0)884429448 (GSM/ WhatsApp)

Further reading & scrolling through other peoples pictures
A mountaineer who talks a bit about 'the spirit of the mountain' | makes reference to the rumour that Tolkien based his descriptions of Middle Earth on Mulanje | something about Laurens van der Post's (tragic) 1949 mission
https://www.markhorrell.com/blog/2014/legends-of-mulanje-africas-misty-mountain/

Stephen and just-two-drops-of-sweat-Aubrey

Account by a friend of the aforementioned Laurens van der Post (75yrs old!) travelling in the footsteps ...
https://www.theguardian.com/travel/2012/jan/15/malawi-walking-laurens-van-der-post

More (sometimes quite heavily filtered) photos
https://travelswithben.com/2018/06/20/from-chisepo-hut-to-chambe-hut-mulanje-mountains-malawi/

More about Mulanje cedar and the spirit of the mountain | also from the perspective of forestry workers | advice on whether or not to shout when you're up there
http://kondwanikamiyala.blogspot.com/2007/02/memories-from-other-side-of-mulanje.html

A description of a group-hike up Sapitwa, ending with "If heaven exists, I hope it looks like Mulanje Mountain"
http://alecinmalawi.blogspot.com/2013/04/climbing-legendary-mulanje-mountain.html

Lichenya hut

WHOA Podcast Episode 8 - The Mountain

We're baaaaaack! After an early start to the day, we go shopping for supplies and make arrangements to climb the Mulanje Massif. A group of 6-8 boys try to convince us to hire them as guides and porters, or to buy their walking sticks. At the Forestry Office, we met Aubrey, the world's greatest guide. Over the course of the day, the mists around the mountain rose and revealed her beauty and we prepared ourselves for the challenge ahead while we camped at Likhubula CCAP. Are you ready?