from mountain to lake

The 60m-deep Dziwe la Nkhalamba (literally 'Old People's Pool') .... again.
This photo was taken about 25yrs ago!

Part way down the Chapaluka path from Chambe hut down the mountain we had a chance to jump into Dziwe la Nkhalamba (Old People's Pool). One of the things our guide pointed out on the path nearby were the remains of clay pots submerged in the ground. I was glad Aubrey told us because once we knew what to look out for there were quite a few of these pots visible as we continued on our way. These pots had something to do with 'the old people'. My immediate reaction was to be careful not to stand on them - how old are they? what stories do they tell? - while also realizing that this 'archeological site' is completely exposed to the trampling feet of many hikers who don't see or don't know. Not to mention exposure to all sorts of weather and some of the highest rainfall in the region.

The necessary paperwork for 3 cold drinks

When I had a chance to do a bit of searching it became clear that little is known about the clay pots near the old people's pool in the Likhubula river of Mt Mulanje.
Search: Mulanje + archeology = very little
Mulanje + Dziwe la Nkhalamba = very little
Mulanje + clay pots old people's pool = very little
I thought academic databases might be a bit more to the point and I tried the Web of Science and Scopus. It seems however, most academic output about Mulanje concerns biodiversity, biology, plant sciences, zoology and some tropical medicine and public health studies.

A blog post by journalist Agnes Dumi Mizere from 2013 gives some detail on a rain shrine and possible deities. She mentions a Catholic University group doing research and references one Menno Welling. This small world we live in connects this person who did archaeological research in Mulanje with my sister and the town where she lives but that's not the point here. I must correct myself, little is written about those pots... which is not the same as what is known. The oral traditions of a country like Malawi are rich but they're barely on the web. And I wish now that I'd done a better job of listening to what I was told. They were maybe not the scientific facts about their age or exact loaction. Who brought them there? What were they hoping for? It makes me look forward to visiting Mulanje again.

Back at Likhubula House there was a music video being recorded while we rested a bit and enjoyed a cold drink (Malawian Fanta: some of the best Fanta in the world!). Being around lots of people was quite a change after the relative solitude of the mountain and now there were all these dressed up swaying women singing. I don't think this was the exact same choir but to give you an impression check out this video of the Umodzi Womens' Choir, also recorded in and around Mulanje.

On we go: road trippin' via Phalombe, Zomba, Liwonde and Mangochi

And just in case you're planning your own trip we would like to remind you that we highly recommend our Mulanje Mountain Guide: Aubrey contact him on WhatsApp 00 265 (0)884429448
As we continued on our road trip towards the lake there was lots to think about and see. Around us the landscape changed. As we left Mulanje and Zomba behind, we saw more and more baobab trees. Palm trees too. It's pretty brief but if you're now ready for a full geography lesson you might enjoy this: Geography Now presents Malawi!