WHOA Podcast Episode 11 From Mountain to Lake

Quite the change of locations. It began in the mountains, surrounded by stillness and ended on a beach listening to loud dance music. Pleuntje, Stephen and Aubrey descended Mount Mulanje and were greeted by a Women's Gospel choir. That was followed by a long drive through throngs of people who seemed to be waiting for royalty and we appeared to be the last people allowed through the police/military road blocks. Somehow we managed to get lost in a village that had only 2 streets, but did eventually find Fat Monkeys camp resort. Time to sleep... nope. The music kept playing until 2a.m. and then the fishing boats revved their engines beginning at 4a.m. Will there ever be sleep again? If you're planning a trip to Mulanje, be sure to contact Aubrey directly: 00 265 (0)884429448 (mobile/ WhatsApp)

from mountain to lake

The 60m-deep Dziwe la Nkhalamba (literally 'Old People's Pool') .... again.
This photo was taken about 25yrs ago!

Part way down the Chapaluka path from Chambe hut down the mountain we had a chance to jump into Dziwe la Nkhalamba (Old People's Pool). One of the things our guide pointed out on the path nearby were the remains of clay pots submerged in the ground. I was glad Aubrey told us because once we knew what to look out for there were quite a few of these pots visible as we continued on our way. These pots had something to do with 'the old people'. My immediate reaction was to be careful not to stand on them - how old are they? what stories do they tell? - while also realizing that this 'archeological site' is completely exposed to the trampling feet of many hikers who don't see or don't know. Not to mention exposure to all sorts of weather and some of the highest rainfall in the region.

The necessary paperwork for 3 cold drinks

When I had a chance to do a bit of searching it became clear that little is known about the clay pots near the old people's pool in the Likhubula river of Mt Mulanje.
Search: Mulanje + archeology = very little
Mulanje + Dziwe la Nkhalamba = very little
Mulanje + clay pots old people's pool = very little
I thought academic databases might be a bit more to the point and I tried the Web of Science and Scopus. It seems however, most academic output about Mulanje concerns biodiversity, biology, plant sciences, zoology and some tropical medicine and public health studies.

A blog post by journalist Agnes Dumi Mizere from 2013 gives some detail on a rain shrine and possible deities. She mentions a Catholic University group doing research and references one Menno Welling. This small world we live in connects this person who did archaeological research in Mulanje with my sister and the town where she lives but that's not the point here. I must correct myself, little is written about those pots... which is not the same as what is known. The oral traditions of a country like Malawi are rich but they're barely on the web. And I wish now that I'd done a better job of listening to what I was told. They were maybe not the scientific facts about their age or exact loaction. Who brought them there? What were they hoping for? It makes me look forward to visiting Mulanje again.

Back at Likhubula House there was a music video being recorded while we rested a bit and enjoyed a cold drink (Malawian Fanta: some of the best Fanta in the world!). Being around lots of people was quite a change after the relative solitude of the mountain and now there were all these dressed up swaying women singing. I don't think this was the exact same choir but to give you an impression check out this video of the Umodzi Womens' Choir, also recorded in and around Mulanje.

On we go: road trippin' via Phalombe, Zomba, Liwonde and Mangochi

And just in case you're planning your own trip we would like to remind you that we highly recommend our Mulanje Mountain Guide: Aubrey contact him on WhatsApp 00 265 (0)884429448
As we continued on our road trip towards the lake there was lots to think about and see. Around us the landscape changed. As we left Mulanje and Zomba behind, we saw more and more baobab trees. Palm trees too. It's pretty brief but if you're now ready for a full geography lesson you might enjoy this: Geography Now presents Malawi!

WHOA Podcast Episode 10 Chambe

Day 2 in the Mulanje Massif took Stephen & Pleuntje from Lichenya to Chambe. Everything about the day was stunningly beautiful. Well, except for when the group of 5 American missionaries invaded the hut and a massacre ensued. Plus, we share some 'Life Lessons' from following our guide, Aubrey. If you're planning a trip to Mulanje, be sure to contact Aubrey directly: 00 265 (0)884429448 (mobile/ WhatsApp)

Chambe

Chambe hut has a stream running right by it which was great for an afternoon paddle and splash. It also has 'running water', in that there's a  tap-like pipe set up that continuously spews water. I guess it's water from the stream that is slightly diverted towards the hut, so creating a perfect spot for dish-washing and tooth-brushing. It made me think of my father. Always, eager to fix a leaky tap or pump, always on the look-out to improve access to clean water and minimise wastage. Splashingly generously I wasn't quite sure if he would improve of this 'approach'.

The topic of water pumps came up later in the day, talking to the Americans who were also staying at Chambe that night. A few of these guys are currently involved in water/ sanitation projects in Malawi and Mozambique and one of their tasks is the maintenance of water pumps. At this I perked my ears. Do you know of the Nsimbi pump? It turns out that the Nsimbi pump which my father helped/developed in the late 70's, early 80's is still in use. Parts are still available in Blantyre although other models are more common. In the following days we kept an eye out for this particular type of pump, didn't see it but nice to know it's out there.

You were probably not expecting a lesson in water pumps so I'll just add some pictures to make it more palatable. The 'Nsimbi' is not included but it's related to the Blair pump I think, and means steel or iron in Chichewa. It's a direct action hand pump for shallow wells. Invented in Malawi.

from a publication called Water for All published by the Zimbabwe Government and online here

WHOA Podcast Episode 9 Lichenya

Day 1 of hiking the Mulanje Massif. We departed early in the morning towards Lichenya hut. Stephen sweated more than he ever has before. Pleuntje found it breath-taking, literally. Stories were swapped with Aubrey, the world's greatest guide. We were shocked to discover that the waist-pouch with all our valuables had been left behind. How were we going to tip the Watchman without any cash? Give him cookies or a coconut?

Lichenya

break with a view along the 'Milk Run' path

The natural environment of Mulanje has some pretty unique features. For Pleuntje, recognising some of the plants and flowers brought back memories of family expeditions of the past. Favourites include the everlasting sunflowers (helichrysum), the 'Mulanje toilet paper', which is a particular kind of hanging lichen growing on trees, the proteas, and the tree ferns.

When we initially booked our trip, there had been some 'unrest' in the Mulanje region due to black magic and vampires. Yes, indeed, that sucks. And sounds very strange, doesn't it? Even at the time of writing, the official Belgian and Dutch travel advice is to visit Mulanje with 'heightened alertness' for these reasons. Different versions of what was going on in 2017 still circulate and this was not something we were too concerned about and not something we will go into here. However, it does connect with a bit of the mystery of the mountain that surfaces in accounts of locals and visitors, past and present. For example, most hikers head straight up to the highest point called Sapitwa, which means: 'Don't go there'. Some of this came up in our conversations with Aubrey (when we had a chance to catch our breath and talk). Just to say not all trips up this mountain are uneventful.

Looking across the Lichenya plateau

 If you're planning a hike more resources can be found through the Mountain Club of Malawi. 

For an excellent guide be sure to request Aubrey S. through the Forestry Office or contact him directly: 00 265 (0)884429448 (GSM/ WhatsApp)

Further reading & scrolling through other peoples pictures
A mountaineer who talks a bit about 'the spirit of the mountain' | makes reference to the rumour that Tolkien based his descriptions of Middle Earth on Mulanje | something about Laurens van der Post's (tragic) 1949 mission
https://www.markhorrell.com/blog/2014/legends-of-mulanje-africas-misty-mountain/

Stephen and just-two-drops-of-sweat-Aubrey

Account by a friend of the aforementioned Laurens van der Post (75yrs old!) travelling in the footsteps ...
https://www.theguardian.com/travel/2012/jan/15/malawi-walking-laurens-van-der-post

More (sometimes quite heavily filtered) photos
https://travelswithben.com/2018/06/20/from-chisepo-hut-to-chambe-hut-mulanje-mountains-malawi/

More about Mulanje cedar and the spirit of the mountain | also from the perspective of forestry workers | advice on whether or not to shout when you're up there
http://kondwanikamiyala.blogspot.com/2007/02/memories-from-other-side-of-mulanje.html

A description of a group-hike up Sapitwa, ending with "If heaven exists, I hope it looks like Mulanje Mountain"
http://alecinmalawi.blogspot.com/2013/04/climbing-legendary-mulanje-mountain.html

Lichenya hut

WHOA Podcast Episode 8 - The Mountain

We're baaaaaack! After an early start to the day, we go shopping for supplies and make arrangements to climb the Mulanje Massif. A group of 6-8 boys try to convince us to hire them as guides and porters, or to buy their walking sticks. At the Forestry Office, we met Aubrey, the world's greatest guide. Over the course of the day, the mists around the mountain rose and revealed her beauty and we prepared ourselves for the challenge ahead while we camped at Likhubula CCAP. Are you ready?

the mountain

The CCAP Likhubula house is a bit of an architectural gem for the remoteness of its location. It can host big and small groups, has dorms, chalets, a dining room, an outdoor chapel space, a story-telling pavilion, even a swimming pool (although it was empty when we visited). It was renovated recently and really is a great spot to pause on your way up and/or down Mulanje. To camp, we were directed to the front lawn. With a lot of beautiful plants and a view-point type altitude it was a great place to prepare our mountaineering adventure.

The setting was dramatic in a way that matched our excitement and anticipation. There weren't other guests staying and we did not get the sense that we would be seeing many fellow hikers on the plateau either.
To get to  Likhubula House, there were some signs and people eager to help. After you've come through the forestry gate, keep to the right and follow the road. It passes by access to the river (the Likhubula Pools), then a few chalets on your right, a few hairpin turns which lead you to the end of the road. You have reached your destination. When we headed up the mountain the next day we were able to leave our vehicle parked there and we left our luggage (and valuables) in the store room too.

If you're interested in exploring a little: OpenStreetMap has a lot more detail than most other online and guide book maps. It shows the Forestry huts on the mountain and a lot of the paths too. Follow the Milk Run up the mountain and then take the turn to Lichenya hut if you want to be prepared to hear about our first climbing day.

If you're planning a hike more resources can be found through the Mountain Club of Malawi. 
For an excellent guide be sure to request Aubrey S. through the Forestry Office or contact him directly:
00265(0)884429448 (GSM/ WhatsApp)

WHOA Podcast update

Why isn't there a new episode of the Warm Heart of Africa Podcast this week? Sorry, it's due to circumstances beyond our control. We hope to be back soon with some stories about Mount Mulanje! Which are not nearly as dramatic as 'Gabriel and the Mountain'.

WHOA Podcast Ep.7 The Saints

Pleuntje returns to her saintly secondary school (try saying that 10 times fast). We hop in the car and try to be tourists without much luck. Along the way meet some grumpy expats, a lovely parking warden and enjoy eating some delicious curries. The last full day spent in Blantyre. Come along for the ride, will you?

the SAIntS

By far the most interesting part of our day was a tour of Saint Andrews International School: Saints for short.

 On this stop along memory lane you can imagine how delighted I was to find, so many years later, a mark that I personally left... and re-found. And no, it wasn't something I'd written on the back of a door or scratched into a desk. It was my own handwriting in a framed photo collage of a trip I don't think I'd ever actually been on. Apparently back then I already enjoyed the graphic design tasks.
The title of this particular collage was Saints on the move. That seems rather appropriate when I think of all the Saints (alumni) that came to mind during our visit of the school grounds. I would love to name every one of you but I undoubtedly I would omit someone so I'll run through the places and activities where we 'shared time' and hopefully if you Saints come across this you'll know: this one is about you.

Other stops on this day included:
The Mandala House (including a coffee at La Caverna)
Society of Malawi Historic & Scientific
The Malawi Museum (Chichiri museum)
The Boma
St. Paul's Anglican Cathedral (by accident, really)
 Bombay Palace

Thanks
for all those lengths swum
for chopsticks played on the piano's
for turns taken on the CDT machines
for teaming up in chemistry and home economics
for lunches shared on the benches by the sports fields
for notes written and passed along (the original text messaging :)
for house competitions (go Chiradzulu!)
for cross country, assemblies, choir, dancing, theater...
for the teachers and the grounds-staff (the real Saints)

for friends. for SAIntS

WHOA Podcast Ep. 6 The Mission

Who knew church could be so educational? Pleuntje and Stephen go to St. Michael and All Angels CCAP Presbyterian Church, Blantyre. They learn some new songs, meet some old friends (and new ones too), see a stain-glass window of Wonder-White-Bread Jesus, and still had time for a nap! Also, in this episode, you get to meet the choir who provides some of the music on the podcast. Feel free to sing along.

the mission

Church of St. Michael and All Angels

The day we spent on Blantyre Mission was a cocktail of church and memory lane.

These types of experiences are not easily shared as they are layered with meaning, partly personal but large chunks of this, constructed in community. The communities I refer to are big and small, here and there, of the present and of the past, they include people I know intimately and strangers too. But through all those differences, sharing and singing are an important part of both and they bind it all together for me, for us. They also bind me to you and therefore you to this place.

This Blantyre Mission.

We shared
Hymn books were passed along to us and in the white cubes of bread and little plastic glasses of wine there were memories of people and places where we had shared these same things before. Being asked to come up to tell everyone where we were from maybe didn't feel as 'welcoming' as it was meant to (rather overwhelming) but it did give everybody a good look at us. And afterwards there was one couple that came and said to me "you look like your father."  I had not expected that that 'commonality' would get attention on this day. Sitting out on the grass afterwards Stephen and I shared a packet of crisps and an apple. Wow. Finally, a chance to share this place. Later JanJaap pointed towards a house just up the road from there: "That is where your mother welcomed us with tea on the verandah. It was there that we first met." (The funny thing with memories is that they're quite generous towards inconsistencies. The "when we first met" actually happened before I was born so that would've been my sister maybe. Small technicality! *)
 
We sang
Not always texts that are easy to understand (they are in Chichewa or they are theologically complex, convoluted, etc) but melodies weave together the cells and bones, organs and vessels of my life. They're never shy, almost always jumping up out of a memory drawer with unprecedented enthusiasm. Yes! Let's sing that song! Together! Not all the singing was amazing. The visiting choir was, but some of the older hymns ... well, let's just say not everything the Presbyterians brought from Scotland should have stuck around for so long. Some songs are cheesy, some songs are strange but it was good to sing together. There were songs we have sung on three continents; songs we have sung on buses or in cathedrals; there were songs we have woken up with without reason or run into when we least expected it. These are things that unite us.

I hope you feel it: this Blantyre Mission is common ground.

When this day drew to a close a thunderstorm rolled over Blantyre. The spirit of God? The spirit of ... ? Strong winds and hard rain came down. It cut the electricity at Grace Bandawe and we were grateful that our tent was not being put to the test in this.

*David Livingstone would also listen to our podcast and say: Hm, actually, I did not start that place. It may have been named in memory of me and my place of birth (Blantyre, Scotland) and I may have passed by there on my travels (between 1859 and 1861) but I believe it was well after my passing (in 1873✝) that the mission was established (in 1876) by the Church of Scotland East Africa Mission. 

WHOA Podcast Ep.5 Grace

An early Game drive with an elephant, hippos, zebras, antelopes, a sable and more pumbaa's! Then, on to Blantyre! The quest for a parking spot. Followed by the quest for a camping gas cannister. Followed by the quest for cash. Followed by the quest for a campground. Appropriately, we ended up back where it all began... for one of us.

Grace

zebra crossing!!

 On our way out of Majete we were singing. 

A (churchy) golden olden oldy that took on new meaning:

All things bright and beautiful,

all creatures great and small,

All things wise and wonderful:

The Lord God made them all.

He gave us eyes to see them,

And lips that we might tell

How great is God Almighty,

Sable antlope

Who has made all things well.

We might've made up some verses in between to align with the animals we'd recently seen. Feel free to do the same and sing along [click here for the tune]

The zebra's crossing the road

the sable wise and strong

The hippo's in the water

the elephant as well.

showing more skin than they usually do

On we went.  There were many things that made us feel welcome and happy to have found a place to stay at Grace Badawe's in Blantyre - reconnecting to wifi was one of them. Being able to share with mum that we were where we were, also meant she was able to (instantly!) answer some of our questions. Who was Grace Bandawe?

the grass is greener on the other side

Grace was a midwife. She was married to Lewis Bandawe in 1913 on the Blantyre Mission. By 1928 she had gained experience helping multiple 'lady doctors' at births, initially assisting as an interpreter. She worked hard among the woman of the Blantyre and Chiradzulu districts and went on to be the first woman to be elected on the Blantyre Town Council in 1963. She died in 1967 with thousands present at her funeral (from Memoirs of a Malawian by Lewis Mataka Bandawe).... Next thing I know is that Dr. Bijl was delivering babies in a building named after her in the late 70's and that it's now a place where you can quite comfortably stay. That still leaves a lot of gaps in the story of Grace but we were glad to have returned and become a part of it.

Grace Bandawe: a Conference Centre and Lodge but also the clinic where Pleuntje was born

WHOA Podcast Ep.4 Wild Life

It was a relaxing day watching wild animals from the comfort of our hut, a luxurious swim and a thirst-quenching fanta, topped off by a 'night drive' safari with Kenneth & Osman, the fearless rangers. Note: no animal was harmed in the making of this podcast.

Wild life

stilted shelter @Majete Community Campsite

To get the fire going for breakfast we brought along one of our map print-outs from the day before. The wood was plenty dry but a quick an easy fire-starter is helpful when, you know, it's been a while. The night watchman was entertained to see the mzungu lady setting the fire and was eager to help. Pointing at my supplies he asks "No plastic bag?". When I refused my ziplock bags - which at home I wash and re-use until they fall apart - he went off to find something, more suitable than my A4 sheet of paper. It seems that instead of paper, plastic is the go-to firestarter. Hm. This was an open air kitchen but what about all those fires made in huts? With plastic. It's hard not to wag a finger and claim a moral high ground. Air quality! Pollution! Health! But then, what else to do with the waste we  leave behind in a natural environment like this? Is it best burnt? It's hard to imagine our life at home without the city's garbage pickup service.

There really weren't many tourists around although we did get a glimpse of some other semi-permanent residents. Near to the campsite there was a student/ research camp, linked to Stellenbosch University in South Africa. A pretty spectacular location for a research-stay if you ask me. Maybe not easy considering the relative isolation. On a day off the pool up the road was one of the few places to go.

Stephen in the kitchen and PUMBAA! sighting

In the podcast we list the animals we saw and if you want to know more or discover what they look like you will probably have no problem getting Mr Google or Mrs Wikipedia to assist. We were not planning to add countless numbers of photos (but offer a glimpse anyway). Having said that, two of the animals may need an explanatory note.
The first is 'the Pumbaa'. It seems one of the best known warthogs is a Walt Disney character called Pumbaa (the Lion King, 1994) and this name has been widely adopted (or just by Osman & Stephen?). I do not think it is the Chichewa word for warthog. 

Also, we saw a Civet. Not a Civic. Not a car and not a cat. Sorry, is this confusing? The Civet used to be called the Civet Cat until it was decided it's not a cat at all. An unusual looking animal and now ... for the unexpected link to coffee: it is the Civet's Asian relatives that are responsible for Kopi Luwak or Civet Coffee (and if you've never heard of that you may want to watch 'the Bucket List').

wonders of creation (special shout out to @HoopoeNL: we saw one! an Upupa Africana)

With thanks to Kenneth & Osman of African Parks

WHOA Podcast Ep.3 Eye spy

The search continues for camping gas and a decent coffee. We take in the sights, sounds and smells along the road to Majete Community Campsite and encounter a mysterious beast lurking in the dark.

Eye spy

When Pleuntje turned 15, her parents gave her a book of 'Images of Malawi': a collection of small square paintings with accompanying texts. In the past years it came along, mostly going from moving box to bookshelf... until now. That's when a 'note to self' slipped out, written in an 18 year old's handwriting on a November day somewhere in the Low Lands. Re: how I would like to go back some day and take photographs of the things Ms. Peverlle painted.

Potatoes for sale along the M1, south of Lilongwe

There had been some umming and ahhing about whether to take the camera, which lens or just our phones? An underlying question was whether the desire to capture a moment is more about sharing and considering those you will show it to than about actually being present and experiencing the moment? Not a new question at all but helpful to keep in mind when I find my mind racing ... 'will I be fast enough?/ oh dear, the lens cap!/ do you think they'll mind? etc. etc.' 

A lot of this day was spent together in the car, so the camera was nearby and regularly 'allowed' to interrupt conversations. However, as many of you will know, taking photo's out of a moving vehicle doesn't generally lead to great results. A few were made but more importantly we can report that there was much beauty to be seen. The roadside landscapes and still-life's were abundant, and every now and then they did remind me of the ones Ms. Peverelle captured.

Thanks to one of our listeners we've been learning a bit more about bricks. Did you come across the news that highlighted the potential of urine in brick-making? And here's also a link more specifically about bricks in Malawi.

View into the Shire Valley, Michiru Conservation Area looking towards Chikwawa

WHOA Podcast Ep.2 Airtime but no gas

We had 4 objectives as we set out on our first day in Lilongwe. Pleuntje and Stephen search for cash, groceries, a sim card and the ever elusive camping gas. They haggle with curios sellers at the market and learn how to calculate using Malawi Kwachas.

airtime but no gas

Having clear objectives on our first day in Lilongwe gave us reason to enter stores and examine the merchandise, make conversation and persist on our quest. It gave us a chance to check out prices, get accustomed to Malawi Kwachas and practise the conversion math.

• 1000MK for a cup of coffee
• 2500MK for lunch /a main dish at Annie's Coffee Pot (only instant coffee)
• 4000MK for  fancy (South African?) YumYum peanut butter
• 700MK for strawberries from a street vendor
• and ...300MK for a SIM card. So it may have taken three queues and a couple of hours but we got ourselves a local phone number.
  
  The hardest to find turned out to be a small gas canister [click here to insert background music 🎶]. The Chipiku, Shoprite, Sana and the Game are just some of the stores we got to know along the way. In the bigger stores there was usually a 'bag check': a counter where you hand over your backpack while in the store (and most of you will know Stephen takes his backpack pretty much everywhere). There was also a special 'stamping desk' where the contents of your bag was checked in advance, items purchased elsewhere were marked and when leaving your receipt was stamped... by one, two, sometimes three people. On our part this led to all sorts of questions about employment, salaries, income etc. It often seemed that where somebody was working (stamping but also sweeping or mopping) there would be at least two other people doing the exact same thing.

By late afternoon our sandaled feet were dusty. Dirty like mine hadn't been in years and we had a date. Catching up with Farayi that evening was by far the highlight of the day. The picture included here comes alongside one taken more than 25 years ago at Chambe hut on the Mulanje Massif when Farayi was holidaying with our family. Good to see you again shamwari.

WHOA Ep.1 dept/arr

An introduction to a short series about 2 mzungu's travelling in Malawi. Stephen and Pleuntje discuss their expectations, hopes and experiences for the trip, plus stories about the people and things they saw and ate, and didn't eat on the first day of travel.

dept/arr

An attempt to sleep at Jomo Kenyatta airport. Note the hippo up close, gazing lovingly. The wildlife-themed window decals/ stickers gave the place a contemporary (and slightly cliche) feel. 

Between Nairobi and Lilongwe our Kenya Airways flight made a stop in Nampula, Mozambique. I don't think we can now claim to have been in Mozambique but that stop meant we came into Malawi by 'crossing the lake'. Yes, we know: too many photo's are taken out of airplane windows but here you see the contours of the southern tip of Lake Malawi (flying west, looking south). I think it's the bay with Mangochi at its most southern tip, with on the left the slight jut at Mwanjaga - but do correct me if you think otherwise! Here's the general info on Malawi and a decent map.

The travel day ended on the campsite of Woodlands Lilongwe.

Definitely a place we can recommend. With camping at 10US$/ night it was one of the more expensive places we came across but the advantages included a relatively easy route from the airport (also on the north of Lilongwe), it includes use of the pool, there's WiFi, a good restaurant and for a 'city location' quite an abundance of nature (and dust). 

WHOA Podcast ep.1 dept/arr